Surfing in Southern Taiwan

I have just returned from a trip down south to Jialeshuei to both work and surf. Since making some great friends that run a wonderful bed and breakfast above the beach, hidden in the palm trees and green foliage, I have been returning to this southern gem once a month. A chance to relax and reflect upon my life here in Taiwan, I have found comfort and solitude in the waves that grace the shore.

During the winter I found a beautiful classic motorcycle that I have been able to fix up and use as my principle means of transportation. Starting from Changhua, I am able to take either the coastal highway (Route 17) or the mountain roads throughout the Nantou and Alishan mountain regions (Route 3). The coastal road goes through towns of varying sizes, along an industrialized, and not too glamorous, western coastline, while the sinuous mountain route is far more beautiful and traverses the sloping foothills of the central Taiwan mountain chain.

Over the past few rides, I have noticed how the bamboo leaves have been turning their color and making the mountains look more like vestiges of Minnesota, rather than a Far East landscape. Along Route 17, the caricature of Taiwan ranges from cosmopolitan and town dwelling people, to a very archaic and rustic atmosphere of plantations and aboriginal villages. The mountain road, from the Changhua and Taichung region, will take about 6 hours, even though the distance is far greater. However, Route 3 through the mountains has the luxury of bypassing all the cities and placing you squarely in the middle of Pingtung City, which is more of a large town. From there you will hit the ocean, and have a beautiful one hour drive along Route 1 and the coastline.

Literally looking as if you have descended from the North Shore of Kuai’i, or out of a scene from Jurassic Park, this strip of road is the tail of Taiwan. By looking at a map, Taiwan will look like a sweet potato with a tail, and this tail is called Pingtung County, where the infamous Kenting and Jialeshuei lie.

However, there is another small gem that lies before Kenting and Jialeshuei; Hengchun. A rather traditional town, Hengchun used to be an aboriginal garrison city and is fortressed by a barrier that used to circumnavigate the town. Today, portions of this stone edifice remain, with the middle of the town harboring the main gate (“da men” in Chinese), with the main town road encircling the structure in a type of Taiwanese Arc de Triumph.

By passing through Hengchun, the traveler can bypass the chaos of Kenting, and traverse inland to reach Jialeshuei. On the way, about 1km down the road, is an amazing set of natural gas fires that have been roaring for the past few decades. Viewers are able to literally dance through the flames, however this is not recommended. The National Park service overseas the project, which is incredible while illuminated at night. Almost humorously, one can buy JiffyPop and roast it over the fires, while some tourists choose to bring their own skillets with bacon and eggs. I stayed content with my purchased sparkler, determining that a cooked breakfast over an open natural geyser of fire was not on my itinerary to-do list.

Once reaching Jialeshuei, it is possible to either choose to stay in one of the beautiful bed and breakfasts (I recommend Summer Point for the incredible staff and perfect English – full disclosure, they are also very good friends of mine), and a simple hostel called Winson House. One can rent surfboards from any of the establishments there and the prices are fair. However, there is no place to buy extra food, either a cheap beer or snack, due to Jialeshuei’s distance from either Kenting or Hengchun.

Across the street, on patch of palm trees about 100 meters long and nestled in cleared out foliage above the ocean, is a place where people can camp. However, since people rarely venture from the monopolized and overpriced campsites of Kenting, there are few that know this. Each time I go, I bring my camping gear, strapped to the back of the motorcycle, and tuck my tent in between the palm trees. This last weekend, I even saw people put hammocks in between the trees and use that as a domicile. The wind does come up at night, so it is important to be aware that a sturdy structure is needed. But nevertheless, I have spent 10 consecutive nights perfectly perched atop this Cliffside hideaway. The experience is legendary, for falling asleep to the gently crashing waves and silence of the night is only relinquished to the hissing and yelping of monkeys in the morning.

Once dawn approaches, a few faithful surfers will appear on the point break that is below the camp and hostel site. Paddling out, be it morning or evening, there is an overwhelming sense of acceptance and welcome-“ness” that is not found anywhere else in the world. I have surfed and bodyboarded throughout the Pacific Ocean and have never met such positive spirits in the lineup. Upon paddling out, even with a soft-top board, the Taiwanese locals will acknowledge you and try, in very broken English, to see how you are doing, where you are from, or what brings you to their doorstep. Truly a mixture of the Hawai’ian aloha spirit, or southern hospitality, surfing in Jialeshuei is a soothing experience.

There are two separate types of waves at Jialeshuei. There is the point break on the left, which seems to break best during lower tides. This break will give you a great 300 meter run and usually, on a good day, last anywhere from 15 to 30 seconds. Some rides go all the way to the beach, making the paddle back a little longer. Getting out at the point break is no problem, for the water simply shuffles (to the surfer’s) left and recycles back out. However, if you are swimming, be advised, the drop-off is serious and even experienced swimmers have found trouble making it back in. One other concern is the rocky bottom during low tide and the coral that grows just short of the break.

The other break is a shore break that is about 400m out. On a good day, this wave can get super hollow and is a great place for shortboarders and bodyboarders. The drop is steep, but the reward is well worth it. There are usually some powerful rip currents that make it easy for surfers to get out, and some rides are manageable all the way to the beach. I have never encountered any rocks here and don’t think that any exist, due to the consistent sandbar formations. Usually this wave is a right, but if you are willing to get caught up in the wash a little, then dropping through the left side can be fun (especially if it is busy).

To be mentioned one last time is the amount of hospitality in the waves. While most Taiwanese are petrified of water, the community of surfers are very welcoming to new arrivals. Many will try to make conversation with you and will even recommend other places to surf. I have only positive things to say during my past year and a half experience at this spot. There is also an incredible amount of outstanding female surfers and bodyboarders that frequent these spots. All-in-all, this is paradise.